While Rolex and Omega are easily flagged in probate, other brands, like F.P. Journe, Grand Seiko, or Universal Genève, can be just as valuable, if not more so. Some models from these lesser-known makers fetch tens or even hundreds of thousands of pounds at auction, yet are often overlooked.
At Swift Values, we regularly uncover high-value timepieces that others miss. Here are eight brands every probate professional should watch out for.
The Hidden Luxury Market
Luxury watch values aren’t always obvious. While popular brands dominate public awareness, there’s a thriving secondary market for lesser-known names with serious collector interest.
What drives these values? In most cases, its low production volumes, technical innovation, and historical significance, not marketing. A simple-looking dress watch from a niche Swiss or Japanese brand may far exceed expectations in resale value, especially if it’s a rare model or limited edition.
For probate professionals, the key risk is misidentification. A name unfamiliar to the general public could signal a piece worth £10,000 or more. That’s why expert valuation is essential, not just for the big names, but for the hidden ones too.
Eight Brands Worth Knowing
These brands may not be as widely recognised as Rolex or Patek Philippe, but they regularly command five- or six-figure prices on the secondary market. If any of these names appear in an estate, they deserve closer inspection.
F.P. Journe
A cult Swiss brand producing under 1,000 watches per year. Even simple models like the Chronomètre Bleu can fetch £70,000+. Rare pieces reach £1 million+. Highly sought after by collectors for their innovation and scarcity.
Lange & Söhne
High-end German maker with a reputation for precision and hand-finished movements. Core models like the Lange 1 often trade for £20,000–£100,000+. Look out for platinum or limited editions.
Vacheron Constantin
One of the oldest watchmakers in the world. Often overlooked, but vintage and modern pieces alike can be worth tens of thousands. The sporty Overseas and vintage chronographs are particularly valuable.
Jaeger-LeCoultre
Respected by watchmakers, but sometimes missed by the market. The Reverso and vintage Memovox models are especially collectible. Pre-owned values often range from £3,000 to £20,000+.
IWC Schaffhausen
Known for pilot and military watches. Modern Big Pilot models typically resell for £6,000–£10,000; vintage RAF-issued watches can exceed that. Limited editions can fetch significantly more.
Grand Seiko
Premium Japanese watches often mistaken for standard Seiko. Look for the lion logo on the dial or caseback. Some recent models fetch over £10,000; vintage and Spring Drive models are especially sought after.
Panerai
Bold, oversized designs with military roots. Most resale in the £3,000–£10,000 range, but vintage or limited editions can exceed £50,000. Some early military models are worth six figures.
Universal Genève
A dormant brand with a strong vintage following. Mid-century chronographs like the “Nina Rindt” or “Clapton” can command £10,000–£50,000+. Even modest-looking vintage pieces deserve a second look.
Why This Matters for Probate
In probate, due diligence isn’t just about paperwork, it’s about recognising value where others might not. A watch that looks ordinary could turn out to be worth tens of thousands.
At Swift Values, our online valuations start at just £25 per item. For that price, it’s simply not worth taking the risk. If there’s any uncertainty about a watch, even if it’s a brand you don’t recognise, get it checked. You might just uncover a hidden asset that makes a real difference to the estate.
This article was submitted to be published by Swift Values as part of their advertising agreement with Today’s Wills and Probate. The views expressed in this article are those of the submitter and not those of Today’s Wills and Probate.
